ANTARCTICA Home to millions of  Adelie, Chinstrap and Gentoo Penguins All the pictures on this page were taken by Brown and Keene photographer, Ken Hutyra Porpoising Penguins

Adelies on Peterman Island

Antarctica is quite different from South Georgia. Here you leave the greenery behind and enter a world of ice, rock and snow.  Very little grows here and the land is very fragile and must be treated with great respect.  The beauty of this region of the world is impossible to describe. The nature of Antarctica is pristine and with rapid weather changes, from brilliant sunshine to driving gale force winds in a very short period of time.  It is generally colder here than in South Georgia. If you have a calm day it is amazingly comfortable with your long underwear and parkas and often you see people peeling off clothes. Fortunately during the tourist summer season there are many gloriously sunny days to enjoy the spectacular scenery.   In Antarctica you can see various types of seals; Weddell, Fur, Crabeater and Leopard Seals.  Many varieties of whales and of course the stars of the show are the Penguins.  Adelie, Chinstrap, and Gentoo are the penguins you will see in Antarctica.   

The landings described below were places we went on our three trips to Antarctica.  Each trip offers different landing spots so no one trip would cover all these landings.

ELEPHANT ISLAND AND POINT WILD: Elephant Island and Point Wild is where Sir. Ernest Shackelton left twenty two of his men in 1916 while he and five other men sailed to South Georgia for help.  This is a dramatic island with jagged mountains made even more scenic by the covering of snow on the mountain peaks.  Landing here is not possible but a zodiac cruise around both sides of Point Wild was the plan for the day.  The Chinstrap Penguins have a rookery on the island and were jumping in and out of the water as we made our way around the island for a view of the statue of the Chilean Captain, Luis Pardo who rescued the men in his little ship the Yelcho.

We have landed here twice.  The second time the seas were calm and the sun was shining. There is a small bay area that we were able to access on our second trip and had a fantastic zodiac ride viewing incredible icebergs and chinstrap penguins. A stunning experience.

PAULET ISLAND: Paulet Island is located in the Weddell Sea.  We arrived at the island after a fresh snow and that made walking very treacherous and slippery. Particularly when the snow was mixed with the pink guano of the penguins.  The odor here was the worse that we experienced on our entire trip, so with our fleece pulled over our noses we landed on shore. The scene was worth the smell as we were surrounded by a large colony of Adelie Penguins.  It was very slippery so many stayed fairly close to the landing spot and just enjoyed watching the penguins. In a few weeks after we left all these penguins will depart the island and go to sea.  An explorer, Larsen and his men wintered here when stranded during an expedition. At the top of the hill are the remains of a small stone hut they built. After the landing we took a zodiac cruise of the icebergs around the island that were a beautiful blue in color with the penguins jumping into and out of the water.

FRIDTJOF SOUND:  Later that afternoon we sailed through the Antarctic Sound and we went via the scenic Fridtjof  Sound. We were treated to the sight of many whales and also massive tubular icebergs. The Captain positioned the ship very close to a huge iceberg and we were all in awe of the color and size of this iceberg. During the afternoon there were porpoising penguins jumping in front of the ship and birds at the rear of the ship.  There were photographic moments around us all afternoon.
 

DECEPTION ISLAND: A calm and sunny morning.  The sea was like glass inside the cove.  Today was seal day.  Seals were everywhere along the beach.  This is an abandoned British Antarctica Survey Base that was quite interesting. It was also “swimming day.”  This is a volcanic area and the crew dug a pool on the beach.  Due to the volcanic region, the water was warm and it became a hot tub.  The plan was to run into the ocean and then run back to the beach and jump in the hot tub.  A surprising number of the passengers engaged in this exercise.  I think seeing people peel off polar parkas and long underwear to their swimming trunks was a spectacle I will always remember.  The seals did not seem to care. A few Chinstrap Penguins were on the beach, but not a large colony. The area right outside of Deception Island is where many whales are spotted. On our departures from Deception Island we have seen Orcas, Humpback and Fin whales very close to the ship. 
 

HANNAH POINT: It was windy and a little rainy; however, it did not dampen anyone’s enthusiasm because we were all wondering how the landings could get any better than what we had already experienced. Next stop was Hannah Point to see the elephant seals, Gentoo and Chinstrap Penguins.  I was very grateful for the waterproof pants, as we did get splashed in the zodiacs going over.  Once there, it was another stunning scene; thousands of penguins – Gentoos on one side and Chinstraps on the other. If a Chinstrap strayed into Gentoo territory the Gentoo would chase him away and then of course the Gentoo ended up in Chinstrap territory. It was a constant battle chasing each other back and forth. After walking up a slight incline, you look down on this incredible scene.  Lots of elephant seals lying on the beach piled on top of each other and surrounded by penguins going into and out of the water.  Rugged cliffs, raging sea – it was really fantastic and showed the wild side of Antarctica.
 

PARADISE BAY: The zodiac cruise of Paradise Bay was a wonderful experience.  Huge glaciers and beautiful icebergs in every shape and size are all over the bay.  This bay is in front of the Argentine Almirante Brown Station. The landings are split so one group takes the cruise and one group visits the Almirante Brown Station and then a switch takes place. We saw whales, penguins and seals in the water and we moved our zodiacs very close. On one of our trips in Paradise Bay our zodiac engine broke down and we were “rescued at sea” by another zodiac. A high tech maneuver took place of placing oars between the two zodiacs and we simply stepped across.   It was quite thrilling.  The glacier at the head of the bay has a unique shape that looks like a modern sculpture of a city skyline.  The picture below with the small zodiac in front gives an idea of the size of this structure of ice. The seals are lounging on the ice and if you get too close they slip in the water and then return very shortly after you leave.
 

ALMIRANTE BROWN STATION: After the cruise of Paradise Bay we stepped onto the continent of Antarctica and visited the Argentine Almirante Brown Station.  You could climb up the hill and slide down the ice to the bottom.  The surroundings were really spectacular and everywhere you looked were mountains and glaciers and, of course, Gentoo penguins.  There are a few researchers here but they do not sell souvenirs.
 

Almirante Brown Station	Sliding Down the Hill	Finally – the 7th continent

PETERMAN ISLAND: Peterman Island is located at the end of the Lemaire Channel. This beautiful rocky island is idyllically positioned in a natural bay.  There is a penguin research place on the island with tents on the that the researchers stayed in during the summer. On one of our trips to Peterman Island there was a lot of snow on this landing and a lone penguin sitting on an ice floe right where we landed.  Once again, “click-click” of the cameras.  He looked like he was orchestrating the landing.  Gentoo Penguins welcomed us ashore and further up an incline we found the Adelie Penguins. This is a beautiful spot with mountains and icebergs all around the island.  
 

LEMAIRE CHANNEL: This a beautiful passage through a narrow channel that opens to the bay for Peterman Island. As you sail down the channel the ship is constantly in sight of glaciers and photo opportunities.  In the four hours we had been on Peterman Island, a large iceberg had blocked a portion of the narrow entrance to the channel.  Looking at this iceberg, it really seemed to block our path. We watched as our Captain maneuvered the ship around the iceberg.  A  series of pictures follows below. 
 

THE ICEBERG GARDEN:  I thought the icebergs at Paradise Bay were fantastic, but then we went into the iceberg garden.  How anyone can explain what we saw, I do not know.  Pictures cannot do this justice.  Incredible large icebergs of every shape and color of blue you can imagine.  Seals were everywhere and of many different varieties.  It was amazing.  Everyone was quiet because it was very mesmerizing and special. You did not want to break the absolute peace and tranquility of the surroundings. 
 

PORT LOCKROY: A British Station located in the Neumayer Channel where you could go shopping.  The two men manning the station sold tee shirts, stamps, postcards, etc., and you could mail something with a “South Pole” postmark.  This was a lot of fun.  It was also a beautiful spot with Gentoo Penguins absolutely everywhere and a backdrop of glaciers in every direction.  Some of our best pictures came from here because the surroundings were once again spectacular.  I did not want to leave this area as the little penguin chicks seemed to be particularly inquisitive at this spot – perhaps they were more comfortable with humans because the station was there.  We also saw a variety of birds and small chicks wandering around among the penguins. 

THE NEUMAYER CHANNEL: We had a day with brilliant sunshine and absolutely no wind.  The Neumayer Channel will always be in my memory.  The mountains mirrored in the water and the channel was clogged with ice and icebergs.  We tested the ship’s ice rating as we made our way slowly through the ice and avoided the icebergs that often held seal. We spotted whales and once again, the cameras clicked away furiously as everyone tried to capture this magical moment.  The water where there was no ice was mirroring more than I have ever seen anywhere in the world.  We even took a shot in the water where the name of the ship was mirrored in the ocean.  The captain opened up the front of the ship and everyone was leaning over in amazement as the ice parted and we moved forward.  When I show people pictures of this afternoon it does not seem real.  Picture postcard perfection in every shot. 

 
CUVERVILLE ISLAND:  Our last landing!  We did not want this experience to end.  I was sure that nothing could top what we had already experienced and then off we went.  First, another zodiac cruise in another iceberg garden.  Once again, we saw absolutely magnificent icebergs in every shape and size and this time in brilliant sunshine.  They looked so different from the other iceberg garden.  Both were beautiful and I was so glad I had seen them in an overcast sky (the blues are brighter) and then in the sunshine.  Then onto Cuverville Island for our last visit with our new found penguin friends.  This scene is hard to describe.  Thousands of penguins; very active with all their funny behaviors, which we now understood so much more.  The ship nestled in the background with a huge mountain behind it and then in front the magnificent iceberg garden.  Everywhere you look there is a picture opportunity.  It is hard to decide which landing is your favorite as they all offer something different. Cuverville Island will always stay in my memory as my last landing of my first trip – I did not want to leave Antarctica. I stayed until they forced me to leave.   

BROWN BLUFF: Unfortunately the weather did not permit a full landing at Brown Bluff.  This is a penguin rich area with a black sand beach under a giant Brown Bluff. Located in the Antarctica Sound the scene is wonderful and this landing is located on the mainland of Antarctica. So a landing here means you have stepped on the 7^th continent.  Due to the weather we were rerouted to a nearby Argentine Station where we did a zodiac tour of the Adelie colonies and stepped on the continent for a Champagne toast.

MADDER CLIFFS: This landing is on Joinville Island and was an outstanding landing. The area has a great Adelie colony with a sensational backdrop of heavy ice with incredible shapes and sizes.  Walking on the ice (not too slippery) you can actually go quite a distance up the hill, about a 20 minute walk.  The moment you step ashore you are among the penguins so how far you want to walk is up to you.  Almost everyone saw Leopard Seals on the ice and it was a wonderful experience.

YANKEE HARBOR:  This was a fairly easy landing.  Ice had blocked the sandy beach so we had to go up a small rocky hill to reach the colony.  Only about 10 to 15 feet to climb and the staff helped you up the hill, most people would have no problem with this landing.  The Gentoo Colony was scattered around this large landing area. There were a few fur seals and some great skewer activity with many birds flying around trying to catch some of the smaller chicks.  The Gentoos were molting on our visit so they were not too active.

 
VISIT TO RUSSIAN BASE OF BELLINGSHAUSEN AND CHILEAN BASE OF PRESIDENTE FREI: King George Island and Maxwell Bay have the biggest concentration of Scientific Stations anywhere in the Antarctica. Our final landing on my second trip was to visit two bases that were located next to each other, one Russian and one Chilean.  These were interesting to visit and we wandered around looking over all the buildings. There was a store that offered souvenirs for purchase. Both the Chilean and Russian Bases had small churches and the Russian Base allowed us to visit inside their quarters and they were surprisingly comfortable.  The two bases covered a large area and there were many people stationed there. Surprisingly there were about 15 children on the base, from small children to teenagers.  Most of the staff go home for the winter but a few stay on throughout the year. 
 

CAPE HORN – SOUTH AMERICA:  The final wondrous event was the opportunity to land at Cape Horn where we visited a Chilean weather station.  On one trip we had calm conditions and on another the roughest water we had encountered.  Tee shirts, postcards and small items were available for sale.  Several monuments grace the top of the hill.  On one side you have the Pacific Ocean and the Atlantic on the other side.  Incredible picture opportunities with green grass, something we had not seen in awhile. I had a chance to play with a little girl that lives at the point.  Her parents said she loves it when a ship arrives as I am sure most of the time it is pretty lonely living in this remote location. Upon returning to the landing site, the crew had champagne waiting for us and we sat on down and drank "champagne on the rocks" at Cape Horn in the sunshine.